Grandma in Buenos Aires

La Despedida

2008-03-24T18:52:00.000-07:00

This morning we went out for breakfast for the first time. We went to a pastry shop where you got to take a bowl and some tongs and pick out exactly what you wanted to eat off of the pastry wall. We enjoyed our coffee and dulce de leche filled creations, and then headed back to the apartment. The ladies finished their packing and we reminisced about their amazing trip. For lunch we sat at a lovely table outside and had a very traditional Argentine meal - pasta and beef with a red wine sauce. After lunch Layla and Charlotte came over for some goodbye ice cream.

Just before 5 the apartment owner came to check us out, and then Juan Domingo came to take us all to the airport. I helped the ladies through check-in and with paying the airport exit tax, and then turned them over to the customs officials.

Surely they were quickly seated in wheelchairs and attended all the way onto the plane. Right now they are flying somewhere over South America, and will be back to you all first thing in the morning.

The Scots and the Italians

2008-03-24T18:21:00.000-07:00

At 9:30am we were sitting in St. Andrews Presbyterian Church for Easter Sunday service. (Miss Leonora was a little disapointed that they didn't have a sunrise service).All of the church decorations, stained glass windows, and even pews had been imported from Scotland. Even the minister was Scottish (or at least had a Scottish accent)! We sang old favorites out of the hymnal like "Christ the Lord is Risen Today", recited the Lord's Prayer, and took a very nice communion - with port wine! After church (because Grandma had to use the bathroom), we got to see the rest of the church building. We got to see all kinds of artifacts straight from Scotland, and pictures of the church back when it was new.

After church, we went home and got changed, and then went out to lunch. While the best waiter ever was bringing us our every wish, my friend Tommy called because his grandparents were inviting us to have lunch with them at their homemade pasta shop. We had to decline lunch, but gladly accepted coffee!

This is a picture of Tommy and his coca cola collection:

Tommy came and picked us up, and we drove all the way to the outskirts of the city. His grandmother is 82 years old and of direct Italian descent, and his grandfather is 86 and was born in Spain. They both still run a pasta factory and store, and Tommy goes and helps them out on Sundays. We had a lovely coffee and some pastries (including a special Easter cake) and Heather and Tommy translated as fast as they could.

Afterwards, the ladies did some more Christmas souvenier shopping (watch out girls!) Before finally arriving home, we got to visit the only pharmacy that was open on Easter Sunday. Unfortunately, they did not have any witch hazel for Heather's poor thumb that had gotten caught in the door of the taxi.

The ladies finished up their evening with some more packing while Heather iced her swelling thumb.

Tigre and Tigers

2008-03-24T16:38:00.000-07:00

This morning we got up early and went to meet the tour bus at the fancy Hilton hotel downtown. The bus took us to the Coastal Train (Tren de la Costa), and we rode it to the town of San Isidro. The train drivers were on strike, so after waiting for it, we didn't have too much time to see San Isidro. We got back on the bus and rode through the very very rich part of San Isidro until we reached Tigre. Tigre is a city located on a river delta about 30 minutes north of Buenos Aires. The people that live on and around the delta have no cars or roads - only boats.We had a lovely tour of the delta while sipping on coffee, hot chocolates, and coke lights on a catamaran up the river. We saw people's homes, the "grocery store boat", and even a boat gas station.

After a very nice lunch back in the city (ask grandma about all the pecans in her salad!), we took the 152 bus to the city zoo. After fighting our way through hundreds of families with small children, we paid our 8 pesos and entered. Some animals are not in cages and run free around the zoo - like muscrats, and these weird dog/rabbit animals:

The zoo lets you feed the animals, which, putting aside moral issues, is awesome because they all want to come right up to you. You can almost pet the zebras and baboons.

After the zoo it was, of course, ice cream time. It was also a little bit of packing time! The trip is almost over!

Viernes Santo

2008-03-21T20:04:00.001-07:00

Today was Good Friday, so the city was wonderfully deserted. First we took the subway all the way to the presidential palace. Instead of the White House, Argentina has the Pink House.

After walking around the Plaza de Mayo and learning about the Madres/Abuelas de la Plaza de Mayo, we went to see a few nearby churches. First was a Franciscan cathedral one block from the Pink House. Evita's funeral was held here.

Because it was Good Friday, the church was full of people silently praying. As we left, we encountered a processional of normal churchgoers (not a fancy parade like they have in Spain) all responsively praying and singing on their way into the church for mass.
Two blocks away is a Jesuit church. This one is just as big, but not quite as well cared for. The best part was the street vendor outside selling caramelized almonds.

Just about 4 blocks to the north, along the May Avenue, is Buenos Aires' most classic and most famous cafe. Cafe Tortoni was the favorite spot for Borges, Carlos Gardel, and many other history-makers. Today it has tango and other shows, and serves great food and coffee for classy tourists like us.

After lunch we hopped back on the subway, and headed to Paza Italia and the city Botanical Gardens. It had gotten pretty hot out, so we skipped the city zoo, and instead had a little siesta time. The best part of the gardens were the dozens and dozens of abandonded domestic cats that were lounging in every corner.
In the early evening we walked to the mall (conveniently only 3 blocks away) and did a little souvenier shopping (watch out at Christmas ladies!!!) It started raining, so we had a simple dinner and called it an early evening.

Tomorrow we are taking the scenic Coastal Train to the Tigre river delta.

Estancia and Gauchos

2008-03-21T19:42:00.000-07:00

Today we went to the farm! First we had to meet the tour bus at the Hotel Alvear. Hotel Alvear is one of the most luxurious hotels in the city. A simple room costs $400.

After an hour or so of driving through typical pampas countryside, we arrived at the Estancia Don Silvano. After our welcome empanadas and wine, we were able to enjoy the activities of the farm.

At 1:00 they rang the dinner bell and we all piled into the dining room (equipped for easily 300 people). We were served botomless wine, beer, and softdrinks. Salads, bread, and then came the meat. Chorizo sausages, blood sausage, grilled chicken, and finally sirloins steaks on the grill. All the while we were being entertained by a music and dance show of typical dances and songs of each of the regions of Argentina.After lunch there was a demonstration of gaucho (cowboy) horseriding skills.
Finally, we had goodbye mate cocido and pastries.

Evita Day!

2008-03-21T19:29:00.001-07:00

Wednesday we all slept in after our Uruguay excursion and got started a little late. First we visited the Spanish school where Heather works. Check it out here: http://www.iberospanish.com/

Then we went to Puerto Madero to have lunch with some friends. We ate sandwiches and salads with Mauro from Argentina, Layla from France/Morocco, and Bruno from Switzerland.

Afterwards Juan Domingo our taxi driver took us to the Recoleta neighborhood. First we explored the Pilar Cathedral. The church dates back to at least the 1700s. We were also able to tour the museum of artifacts that is in the attached cloisters.

Note the lady in the pink visor:

Then we walked through the next door Recoleta Cemetary. The cemetary is especially famous because it is where Evita Peron was buried.

After visiting her crypt, and of course getting our regular afternoon ice cream, we headed over to Palermo to tour the Evita Museum. We learned all about the short life of the most famous first lady of Argentina.

Uruguay and Chivito

2008-03-21T19:11:00.000-07:00

On Tuesday morning we took a taxi to the port, went through customs, and boarded the Colonia Express bound for Colonia, Uruguay. I think that we each got an entire new page full of passport stamps in just one day.

The boat trip was a little (well, a lot) rocky. I don't think I've ever seen so many airsick/boatsick bags get filled up in just 20 minutes!

Upon arrival in Uruguay, we joined the English speaking group for a walking tour of the colonial town. Colonia was controlled alternately by the Portuguese and the Spanish back in colonial times, so it has architectural characteristcs of both imperial countries.

For lunch we had chivito sandwiches. Chivito is a typical food of Uruguay. It is an open faced sandwich with a thinly cut sirloin, a slice of bacon, ham, a fried egg, and mayonnaise. Delicious!

After lunch we took our time exploring the town.

Here is a picture of the car that Grandma's father tried to teach her to drive on!

At around sunset we headed back to the port to board the boat again. We didn't get back to our apartment until almost midnight. Thanks to the pizza place two blocks away, we were able to fall into bed content.

Walkways and Subways

2008-03-17T18:40:00.001-07:00

This morning the ladies got to sleep in after their long tango night last night. At about 10am we boarded the number 152 bus headed for La Boca.

La Boca (the mouth) is a port town and one of Buenos Aires' oldest neighborhoods. Back when it was founded its residents were too poor to even paint their homes. They begged incoming ships for extra paint, and to this day the town is a collection of rainbow colored homes.

After enjoying the colorful neighborhood and lunch with a live tango performance, we started walking home...

And we kept walking. Through the business and financial district of the city...

By the "obelisk" - the focal point of the city - located in the center of the widest street in the world - 14 lanes across!

Finally we returned home on the subway ("subte"). The green line took us from the Obelisk at July 9 Avenue to our home on Guemes Street. Of course before actually finishing off the day, we had to try out the downstairs ice cream parlor. Grandma got Lemon Mousse, Almond Chocolate, and Coffee. Miss Leonora Vanilla and Chocolate (boring!). Heather Mint Chocolate Chip and Vanilla Chocolate Chip. Layla Coffee and Swiss Chocolate.

Dinner was chicken empanadas of course!

Tomorrow the ladies are leaving Argentina....we are headed to Uruguay!

Polo and Palms

2008-03-16T21:07:00.001-07:00

Last night Argentina changed the clocks (again!) for daylight savings time. Conveniently Heather directed the jet-lagged ladies to set their clocks ahead one hour instead of behind one hour. With the extra 2 hours added to our day, we were able to pack in plenty of activities.
8 peso tickets in hand, we boarded the #57 bus bound for Lujan - home of the basilica to the Virgen de Lujan, the patron saint of Argentina.

With masses being held every hour on the hour, Palm Sunday celebrants were everywhere, and little children were making money selling "olive branches".

Then a taxi took us out to the countryside to a town called Open Door. Open Door is locally known as the Argentine capitol of polo.

The neighborhood polo players organized a scrimmage just for us, and the ladies enjoyed some snacks and conversation in the shade on a perfect 80 degree cloudless day.

We had dinner at a Tango Dinner Show called Senor Tango. The dancers danced plenty of tango, as well as other traditional Argentinian dances. The red wine and perfectly cooked steak was delicious.

Pizza and Parilla

2008-03-16T20:51:00.000-07:00

Grandma and Miss Leonora Rose arrived here in Argentina on Saturday morning. Selman Wright had advised them to ask for wheelchairs, so they were attended by an entourage for their entire journey.
We checked them into their own private apartment(conveniently located just above an ice cream parlor, and 1/2 block from my apartment).

Then we went out for lunch at a streetside cafe pizza place, and afterwards took a walk around the neighborhood, exploring cultural differences...and varieties of dog food in the grocery store!

For dinner we went to a local parilla (grille) and tried some world famous Argentine beef. We saved the world famous wine tasting for another day.